Ok, this is my blog, my space for my honest thoughts. Honest thoughts – I keep repeating in my head. I don’t wanna insult anyone but sometimes one has to take the bullet.
The first time I visited Italy, it was a few years ago. I was a young lady and the trip to Rome and the Vatican was the second time I have been on a plane in my life. I was 21. Yes, it sounds totally crazy considering the fact just this year I have been on 18 different planes. But about how amazing life can be with the rightly planted thought and a vision I talk about in a different category.
My main point is – despite it being only my second trip and me being overly excited because I have known even back then I was destined to live my life hyped on takeoffs and landings, I did not like it.
I disliked Italy big time.
There, I said it.
Rome was just dirty, pricy, the food was not at all what I expected and above all – I travel to connect with people and I just did not feel the vibe.
I was left confused and sad. And yes, maybe if I went there today, my opinion would change, who knows. But honestly, I doubt that. Italy just has not been my jazz, it was more like my blues.
How surprised did I get when during one of the spontaneous runnings around the map sessions that I do every time I have a big project and I feel like shooting myself, I decided to switch Santorini for Positano.
I saw one picture and I was sold. I was soo damn sold like I did not even need any more pictures of that hilly colorful coastline that whispered: “I am Marcello!” (Guess the movie reference?)
However, the Instagram hype about it made sure that me deciding to go there two weeks before the date I planned, Positano was fully booked. But because I am not a quitter, I decided to do my usual little research (read: criminal police investigation, including hearing sessions of all the witnesses) and voted for staying in a nearby village called Massa Lubrense.
I stayed in a hotel called Gocce di Capri from which you can actually see the Capri Island, it had a pool, it had an amazing restaurant with even more amazing pizza and it was about 40 minutes away from Positano by car.
Anyways, I know you guys want to hear the highlights so,
Here are the 5 things you need to know about your trip to Amalfi Coastline:
BORROW A CAR: You will always land in Napoli, from which you should borrow a car. I believe there is some public transport from Napoli to Amalfi but I would strongly suggest to just get a car as you will need it anyways to move around unless you just want to be stuck in Positano. When getting to Positano or wherever you are staying, you can easily get a small motorboat for the day for 150–200 euros and you can travel around the coastline and hop off anywhere you want as well. Strongly recommended!
VISIT ALSO AMALFI: Amalfi Coast is not only Positano. And however Positano is beautiful, the Instagram wave definitely helped it to raise the prices and make it somehow more touristic and less authentic. Do yourself a favor and do not skip the little town Amalfi! It was the best and the most authentic place from them all (and I have seen Massa Lubrense, Positano, Capri, and Sorrento). Amalfi just stole my heart and if I ever decide to come back, I will be staying there and on the hot nights will sit with my back facing the patisserie and looking at the beautiful piazza next to the famous St. Andrews cathedral.
TRY THE LEMONS: Amalfi and Positano are famous for lemons. You can visit many beautiful lemon gardens and you should not miss trying their 100% pure super sour lemonade which will wake you up like no coffee ever can. Also, once in a while I fall so deep in love with something and this time it was their canned Lemon Soda! Ask for it, every day, for breakfast, for lunch, for dinner! And if it is your cheat day, make sure to get an amazing Lemon cake which was one of the most heavenly things I have ever tasted. Aaaand if you want to be super extra, get a small glass of their liquor called Limoncello. Despite me not being a drinker, I wished I looked as cool as those Italians casually playing with the stem of the glass in between their thumb and their index finger and then taking the smallest sips in the history. This is the Italy you have seen in movies. This is the Italy you want!
OVEREAT ON PIZZA: Pizza has been invented in this area so unless you are allergic to gluten, it is a must to eat it at least once a day (ok, I am over exaggerating but that is exactly what I have done). I swear it is impossible to get a bad pizza in there. It felt like any small child from the street could make you the best foodgasmic pizza anytime you ask for it.
ENGAGE WITH THE KIND PEOPLE: People are so different in Amalfi than in the cities like Napoli and Rome! They are very kind and they have their own slow pace with which they gracefully “rule” this land. One thing I absolutely adored was that all women addressed me as “bella”. “Ciao, bella” and “si, bella” was so common in there and I just loved it. However, make sure this euphoria is left in Amalfi because once you get back to Napoli, the vibe is different, the city has one of the highest crime rates in Europe and you should really watch over your stuff.
So yes, I have to say that I apologize to Italy and that Amalfi has changed my mind. It was just beautiful and I would love to come back again if only for the pizza or for the amazing views and fresh lemons everywhere.
And before I leave you, here are some of the tips of places which made my trip really pleasurable:
– Restaurant Eugenes – when I got there they told me their lunch is over and they can just bring me left overs like some salad and maybe some pasta, turned out to be the best meal of my vacay and the cheapest!
– Restaurant of Gocce di Capri – the pizza there was just divine and had about one gazillion calories that made me utterly happy in that moment
– Ice cream shop Baccus Hole – just amazing gelato that needs to accompany your way down the stairs towards the coast
(most of the restaurants in here are a rip off and you basically pay for the view, a great example would be Restaurant Bruno – great view, but pricey and the food was one of the most tasteless I have had and the steak was so chewy you could not eat that) – but restaurant Chez Black had an amazing reviews so go give it a try and then let me know!
– Patiseria Andrea Pansa – go get your lemon cake! Call right now and get one more for free! Haha, I wish… this was just divine. Please think about me when you take your first bite, I want to be there in spirit to see your face.
– Pizzeria La Arcate by the bus station – their Pizza Caprese was probably the best I have had in there! And if you are question why did I not mention Capri at all in this article, it is because Capri deserves one of its own, of course!
Unfortunately, I cannot say the same for Napoli, which I haven’t included for the very opposite reason. As much as I disliked and felt disconnected with Rome once upon a time, I felt even further from the vibe of dirty and a little bit creepy looking Napoli. If I ever have to go there again, it will be to quickly borrow a car and disappear to the Italian paradise on the south.
And till next time, beautiful,